Hej Kramfors,
Kommer du ihåg att jag skrev om att jag haft bra resultat med sjunkande foder istället för flingor? Jag hittade häromdagen nya rön som går i samma riktning :o)
Det är tydligen inte simblåsan som inflammeras men tarmarna!... Hur intressant som helst (för mig...) att läsa mer om.
Säg till om någon vill ha hjälp med Engelska, gör så gott jag kan på svenska.... (leende)
http://www.mu.edu/~buxtoni/puregold/disease/symptom/symptom.htm#floating%20problems
"FLOATING PROBLEMS, SWIM BLADDER DISEASE
NEW THINKING ON FLOATING
Floating problems are complex. If it occurs only after feeding, see below.
... The primary cause of floating is feeding food that floats and/or too much food at one time. Soak the food and squeeze the air out so the food sinks. Best is to get high quality sinking food. Or, feed foods that sink, like grapenuts, rice, veggies, oatmeal. If feeding is only done once a day, feed at night, and all they can eat for 5 minutes. If twice a day, all they can eat in 3 minutes.
The other parameter here is temperature. Increasing the temp of the water seems to ease the floating problem. The activity of their digestive tract increases with increased temperature. However, increased oxygenation of the water must be done at the same time.
For a fish that is already floating, check the belly (see the 3 point physical). IF the fish is fine according to the 3 point check, or if the fish is constipated: The minimalist approach is to not feed the fish for 3 days and if it stops floating, then resume feeding but soaked/sinking food with more veggies like peas.
The more aggressive approach is to feed a pea with a crystal of epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) in it to the fish. Epsom salts is a purgative.
Even more aggressive is to do a salt dip on the fish. This purges the fish out. Ammonia levels must be watched carefully.
If this doesn't work, there is a procedure called the "Chinese Water" method. The fish is put into a tub and only enough water is added to just cover the back fin. The fish is not fed for 4 days. If the fish is upright, each day a little more water is added (the fish must be moved to fresh, aged water each day to move it away from ammonia accumulation). After 4 days, if the fish is upright in deeper water, then a couple peas can be fed. After that, gradually add a little more food.
Another cause of damage is toxins in the water. One of the most common is hydrogen sulfide produced by anaerobic bacteria that live in areas with low oxygen, like the gravel in tanks. GF are bottom feeders and will turn gravel over looking for food. I have seen a GF turn over a piece of gravel
and go into distress. Thought the GF had got the gravel caught in the mouth but gravel could not be seen. The fish displayed balance problems for quite a while. Chronic low levels of toxins with hydrogen sulfide can lead to persistent and finally permanent floating problems. This typically
occurs when the gravel is cleaned by siphoning and the crud gets mixed in the water. The gas is released during siphoning. H2S toxicity should be suspected when a fish shows balance problems during or right after cleaning gravel. Increasing oxygenation of the tank helps the low oxygen problem
somewhat. "
